MID ATLANTIC BACKCOUNTRY DISCOVERY ROUTE (MABDR)

MABDR - July 2018:



Arrived home early last night. Finished the MABDR early afternoon on Thursday. After coffee and pork taco's in Damascus, Virginia - I'd proceeded to hammer on up to Marietta, Ohio and spent the night there.

Yesterday, I'd take my time and leisurely work my way across the state via Ohio Byways. Figured that would be a fitting way to wrap up this adventurous journey and bring it to a close.

Instead of trying to put together a 7-day Ride Report - I'm just going to post random thoughts and pictures of the week as I go through them. Probably won't be in chronological order either. I've already been skipping around as I feel compelled. Too much damn order in the world anyway.

Right in the heart of the Appalachian Mountains!



The official MABDR map was huge and not really configurable for a tank bag map pouch (especially my miniscule enduro model), so while I followed the off-road tracks on my GPS to navigate the route, I'd also made up some flash cards for each section containing pertinent information such as total mileage for the section, start and end town, and highlights along the way - so as to know what to expect or how far along the section you might be.



At the beginning of each section I would load the new track in the GPS from the "My Data" option (since I had already loaded the whole route into my unit from the laptop) and then reset the trip meter on the bike while putting the corresponding section's flash card on top in the map pouch.




- Another section of nasty tight gravel switchbacks (Virginia).




Guess I better go back to the beginning in order to share this stunner of a scene that I stumbled upon on the way to the northern start of the MABDR. The day before, Turbo Jim accompanied me on a ride so I could get staged near the beginning of the route. He rode his 1983 VFR. We ended up staying in a motel in Wellsboro, Pennsylvania.

Early Sunday morning, he was to start heading back home - while I made the short 20 or so mile ride north to the New York/Pennsylvania border town of Lawrenceville.

Couldn't believe my eyes as I came up over a pass and peered down onto this majestic scene. There was even a couple of small fishing boats positioned in the midst of the fog. This is why you don't sleep in folks - get out on the road early !




One still steamy morning after descending from a series of gravel switchbacks, this barn setting caught my eye along a super sweet and curvy rural blacktop byway in Virginia. Being a Michigander, I'm very appreciative of the opportunity to revel in such perfect road surfaces. A few times I did even yell out in exhilaration while proceeding along the well laid-out route.

 

Immediately upon entering Lawrenceville, Pennsylvania to start the MABDR from the northern terminus - this mural presented itself. You know I love murals. Must be living right.



Then I rode around the corner to snap a shot with the state border sign. Already posted the other side in New York. Here is the PA side.



Then I stopped into a little breakfast joint called Dana's Diner - "This place cooks".



The GSA shared the parking lot with the most amazing Power Wagon I've ever laid eyes on.







With all of that out of the way, it was time to start traversing the MABDR route. The first section was a short 70 mile stretch to Cedar Run. But I had to route around a bridge that was closed along the trail. Met a couple of young Canadians who were just finishing up the route. Obviously they had started at the southern terminus. One was on a KLR 650 and the other a Suzuki V-Strom 650.



Random Pennsylvania forest road.



The Grand Canyon of Pennsylvania -

The BDR folks cleverly routed the MABDR through Colton State Park's West Rim of Pine Creek Gorge.

-Imagine a vast sheet of ice, hundreds of feet thick, inching over this landscape like a giant bulldozer. Several such glaciers sculpted this landscape. As the last glacier receded north more than 10,000 years ago, its melt-waters helped carve Pine Creek's deep gorge. Today, the waters continue to gradually deepen "Pennsylvania's Grand Canyon."



Coffee-time on the MABDR!




"MABDR LIFE" -

It felt satisfying to finally be on-route and riding this new Eastern BDR. I'd been anticipating this ride since winter and while Kenny and Scott were supposed to accompany me on this excursion, as is often the case, timing and life makes coordination difficult. Plus the weather has been flaky this year. Our busy time at work is not far off either and I needed to get this ride in before I end up getting tied up. It was July and hot, but at least the rain had finally stopped. So, off I went. If you want to actually ride, you better be prepared to roll solo.

I figured this route wouldn't be too technical, so I elected to mount the hard panniers and run fully loaded. Those spacious top-loading panniers spoil you with their convenience.

-Tioga State Forest




- A wide and smooth gravel switchback.




- A long straight, through lush forest, after a switchback.



- You had to really stay on your toes, if on a big bike, on many of these Pennsylvania forest roads. They often are narrow and very crowned with scattered loose gravel and small ditches on the sides. Much more so than the pictures express. When running at speed, it only takes a second to get in trouble.



-The route takes you through Historic Woolrich and the Woolrich Woolen Mill, which is fittingly located on Mill and Main Streets. Woolrich was founded in 1830 and is one of America's oldest sportswear companies. The original store and factory is still located here.



-This looks like a pleasant place to take my coffee break. Anytime and anyplace when packing a Jetboil and an Aeropress.







- A quaint and inviting two-track.



- There were some challenging and rocky areas along the way, but it sure was nice not to have to go to war with sand for a change. Pretty much everything is hard-packed and rocky in the Appalachians. Dusty when dry, of course. There would be some muddy sections when raining.



Whoops ! Stopped after picking a wrong line in some loose rocks. Daydreaming. Getting too comfortable. Didn't realize how cambered the corner was. Nothing is flat out there. Went to put my foot down and by the time it reached the ground the bike was too far over and a loose rock under boot was all it took. Just let it go. Don't pull a groin. That is why we have crash guards and no radiator to be concerned with.



MABDR - Section 8 "Driveable Trail" Expert Section:

While I was looking forward to this questionably rough challenge, I must admit that I was a bit apprehensive. Knowing that I had everything going against me since I was weilding a very large adventure bike, fully-loaded with aluminum panniers, and riding alone with no spot tracking device. And not knowing what to expect on the trail.

This section comes about just as your entering Bald Eagle State Forest. BESF would continue into Section 7 and end up being some of my favorite riding on the MABDR.



- The E and the arrow show the "Expert" path and how it detours from the main route on a topographical map. While you are in the middle-of-nowhere, note how close Interstate 80 is in proximity to your location. You would never have guessed it.



At least it was dry. This "Expert Section" was only 3-miles long. It consisted of a mostly narrow and overgrown two-track with a lot of ruts and rocks. The rocks were solidly planted in the earth though, so more than anything it was a very bumpy and rough ride as you negotiated your way along the trail - trying to pick as smooth a line as possible.



Being fully-loaded on my big GSA with stock suspension, occasionally had the skid plate, lightly kissing rocks and earth - as I bounced over rocks and dipped down into ruts. How often this happened was directly proportionate to how much speed I was trying to carry. This would be the theme throughout many rough areas of the MABDR while riding briskly. The main shortcoming that was exposed on this expedition was the stock ESA suspension. I'd even set it on HARD and MOUNTAIN - which is as stiff and tall as possible. Going to have to address this in the near future; something GOLD comes to mind.



Other than a hell of a workout for the suspenders and myself being "up on the pegs' for 3-miles, it wasn't too bad. I'd say calling it "Expert" is a stretch. Maybe "Challenging" or "Advanced" but I guess nomenclature or definitions can become blurred when your on a 650+ pound machine. This BDR really is designed for large bikes. I'd say ideal for large bikes. Makes you work some and is more challenging. Perfect adventure-touring terrain. Plus, if that section was muddy, it would be more challenging yet.

Just before reconnecting with the main route, the trail progressively opened up into a beautiful clearing.








- The official MABDR map view of the area.



- Along the bottom of the map is a handy mileage and elevation line chart that also shows some of the prominent crossroads and stops that you may want to consider.



Lot's of scenic overlooks along the MABDR - offering up spectacular vista's.
























MABDR - Section 7

This was quite possibly my favorite section. Don't get me wrong, I completely enjoyed each and every section of this adventure, but this section especially spoke to me with the combination of: Bald Eagle State Forest, the expert section, my serene layover in Poe Paddy State Park, the rocky climb up and out of Poe Paddy, while heading south, more incredible vistas along Poe Paddy Road, and then the fantastic backcountry paved roads through the bucolic (as the BDR folks worded it) farm land leading to McAlvey's Fort Cemetery. The 99-mile section just continued to keep me fully engaged.



- Here are a few pictures from the 10.5 mile long "Flat Hollow" Expert Section. This is also the rocky section that I almost ran over a coiled up Rattlesnake on - right in the middle of the trail ! Just missed him by inches. Luckily I was "up on the pegs" and could see him in time.

- Once again, this section was similar in challenge to the first and shorter "Expert Section"; no problem on even a loaded big-bike with an experienced rider. Remember - this BDR is intended for adventure travelers. Just slow down and pick as smooth a line as possible. It is a suspension workout. Actually, the trail between this expert section and Poe Paddy State Park is similarly rough, and the rocky climb up and out of Poe Paddy while heading south is probably just as difficult as the expert section. So, if you are coming from the south and you are comfortable enough traversing the rocky descent into Poe Paddy State Park, you should be fine with the expert section that shortly thereafter follows. I'd set my tire pressures to 33 PSI. (which is spec) on my Shinko 804/805's and left them there the whole ride, including the run back to Detroit from the end in Damascus.











This picture was specifically taken in order to capture a sampling of the rhododendron that lines the trail and runs deep into the forest along sections of not only this expert section - but many areas of the MABDR. Unfortunately, the prime bloom is long gone and the flowers are faded. But, catch this route, say mid-June or so, and I'd suspect you might be treated to an eye-popping sea of purple and magenta.



-The official MABDR map showing the expert section and Poe Paddy area.



- It was starting to get late as I rolled into Poe Paddy State Park. Being I was in a very remote area, figured I better check out the camping situation here and find somewhere to bed down for the night. Rode around to inspect the remaining sites that were available; they all seemed to be in very close proximity to other campers who were hanging out while playing games, cooking, and drinking. Pretty busy. Was hoping for more solitude. As I pulled back out towards the entrance, something caught my eye across the road, up on a slight elevation and at the base of some hills, with a small gravel drive leading up to the area.

- Now this was perfect. An isolated little hermitage - away from the main campground - to relax and reflect on an incredible days riding. Just my style.



- Layed out my bivy-sack in case there were many mosquitos. Turned out that there were absolutely no intrusive bugs all night. Perfect weather.



- Scavenged enough left-over firewood to enjoy a flickering and crackling fire while I sipped a small bottle of Merlot that I had stashed in my pannier - as my eyes became heavy. Even found a couple nice slabs of red oak. Love the heft and smell of a red oak log.



- Woke at sunrise, well-rested, to the glorious melody of song-birds, and the excitement and wonder of what this next day on the MABDR would bring.




 After departing camp at Poe Paddy State Park and continuing southbound, an almost immediate rocky climb up Poe Paddy Road had situated me atop a ridgeline.

- At the top there was a small trail off-shoot with a short climb up to a small clearing with a nice view. There was remnants of an old fire. A potential dispersed campsite.












- Continuing along Poe Paddy Road.




It took me awhile to make any progress along this ridgeline, as it seemed one scenic vista after another would present itself.

Ingelby View










Penn's View

The setting at Penn's View was really nice. There was a large and somewhat grassy area off to the side of where you park that would be perfect for a lunch break or even to sleep for the night.
















McAlevy's Fort Hill Cemetery -

After many more miles of remote gravel, passing by a logging operation and then through the small Penn Roosevelt State Park, eventually I popped back out onto some small rural paved roads through pristine farm land. When I saw the grassy hill in front of me, I knew that it had to be the old McAlevy's Fort Cemetery, which I had been looking very much forward to after viewing the MABDR movie. How many times have you passed by one of those inviting farm lanes meandering through an absolutely beautiful setting and wanted to ride along it and see where it takes you ? But you know it is private and can't. Well ... this time you can, and it is most likely sweeter than the ones you've seen in the past - when you had to deny yourself. Then at the top of this one, a bonus awaits you; a mid-1800's cemetery perched atop a perfectly manicured hill with a 360-degree view to die for. And it just happened to be a fantastic morning with exceptional weather.




- I'd followed the base of the hill around until the entrance to the farm lane presented itself.




- As I started making my way along the lane, there were cows grazing on my left and abundant fields to my right.




- A look back.




- Then I started the climb to the top.




- It became very steep in one area. The grass still carried with it the morning's dew, so I stayed on the dirt as much as possible.




-Last year this field was corn; besides the stalk remnants giving it away, I also recall the BDR crew riding along the corn field in the movie. Proper crop rotation being employed.




- Up at the top.




- Now that is a nice cemetery.




- And a gorgeous view ! That is the road that I had just arrived by, and in the distance - the mountains that I'd just crossed.




- Near the wooden fence of the cemetery is a mailbox that houses a couple of laminated papers listing all of the people who were buried there, including their birthdays and ages when they died. Notice how young that so many people were when they died back then. Most of us would be long gone by now - if back then.







Not too far down the road from the old hilltop cemetery, and I had to lock up the brakes as my peripheral vision caught sight of a scenic pull-off with another rider enjoying the view. This is where I met Aaron from Grand Rapids, Michigan - of all places. This was towards the end of section 7 and pretty much where he entered the route, as he didn't have time to ride the MABDR in it's entirety.



After introductions, we spent a moment gazing out across the vast Kishacoquillas Valley. Also known as "Big Valley." In this valley resides one of America's oldest Amish settlements. Within this settlement are three main Amish affiliations with multiple spin-off variations from those groups, and different colored buggy tops to help distinguish the affiliations; one of which is bright yellow.



Then we rode down and through that lush valley that we had just observed from the vantage point. We thought that was pretty exciting because initially we had no idea the route would take us down there. We were just following the tracks on the GPS. It's always interesting riding through rural Amish settlements; the farms devoid of automobiles, clothes hanging out on lines to air dry, small Amish kids in traditional dress, passing an occasional horse-drawn buggy, and the general uniqueness of the areas they call home. Amish areas are always excellent riding.

We finished section 7 as we entered into McVeytown, Pennsylvania. We found a small diner for lunch. Then embarked on Section 6. More exceptional riding.

- Aaron enjoying a smoke break down a remote gravel road.



We burned through Section 6, which consisted of 102 miles, and ended in MT. Holly Springs. It was only around 4:00 in the afternoon, but we decided to call it a day right there since we had access to a reasonable motel. A shower sounded nice. Plus we were about to enter the Michaux State Forest portion before departing Pennsylvania, and I wanted to be fresh, as I'd been looking forward to it.

The Holly Inn was clean and had fair rates at $60.00 for MABDR riders and $50.00 for Appalachian Trail hikers. Hey, don't complain; those hikers have been utilizing the motel for a long time. We just started.

They also have a bar and a restaurant attached to the motel. So, we never had to leave until morning.




Low Water Toll Bridge -

As I pulled up to pay my .50 cent toll, I was expecting the tin cup to be extended out of the window on a stick and the voice to say, "You just made my day." That is how it supposedly went down for the MABDR crew, but on this day, she just looked out the window and asked for the toll.

This is the private Old Town Historic Toll Bridge that crosses the Potomac River and connects Maryland to West Virginia. There are only a few private toll bridges left in the country.

Along the way I'd met a couple of Romanian Americans riding the MABDR. One was from Connecticut and rode a KTM 1190 and the other one rode a 2008 KLR 650 and was from Waterford, Michigan. I managed to snap this shot of the KLR Romanian as he thumped his way over the bridge and past me.









- Another spectacular landscape somewhere in West Virginia or Virginia on the MABDR !



MABDR - Horn Camp School

This was another interesting stop that was situated towards the end of section 4. Can't remember her name, maybe Annabelle, but not long after dismounting and walking towards the old school, she was out of her house next door and right over to happily greet me and show me around the inside of the old school. She went on and on with old stories and trivia. There was even an old picture on the wall of her then young Grandmother in a group picture who attended this school.

- The centrally located wood stove is original and was used to heat the schoolhouse back in the day.

- I'm pretty sure she said the desks were also original. The large blackboard at the front of the classroom is original and was flipped over to expose a fresher side.







- She explained to me how this old stove had belonged to her father, although initially she was unaware of this fact, and how the stove was in a neighbors house that had come up for sale. After some investigation and inquiry, she determined it was in fact her fathers old stove, and after much discussion with the new purchasers, she ended up acquiring the almost lost family heirloom.



- It was another hot day, and while taking in all of the interesting relics adorning the walls, this old electric fan, like I've never seen before, was doing it's best to keep us cool. Not original obviously, as it is electric.







While in the schoolhouse the Romanians had arrived. They obviously were not interested in the old schoolhouse or it's contents, as they opted to head straight over to a shade tree next to a woodpile, on the property and just off the road, and plop down for a break.

So, after I finished up in the schoolhouse, I moved my bike over to the shade tree and brewed up a coffee while talking with the Romanians and Annabelle. When I mentioned to them that I almost ran over a rattlesnake earlier in the ride, one of them pulled out their phone and showed us a video of them shooing a rattlesnake off of the road earlier that day. You could even hear the rattle sounding off loud and clear in the video. That bad lad was obviously agitated ! Here we are worried about the snakes, when the locals down there make a point to kill them.

While sipping my coffee, Aaron also showed up. We had become split earlier in the day. We took the bypass around Harpers Ferry, and somewhere around there we got separated. Not the first time, or last. We always ended up meeting back up somewhere along the way. Harpers Ferry and Antietam National Battlefield and Cemetery will be on a subsequent trip, when I can spend some time there and not feel rushed.

After descending from a good hour session of morning switchbacks (crossing into Virginia from West Virginia) in section 3, Aaron sat down for a smoke break and told me about the bears he had been seeing, as he was riding out front. It's nice when there are so few (basically none) cars that you can sit cross-legged in the middle of the mountain road while smoking and chatting about the ride without ever being disturbed. He saw a mother bear with two cubs and a short while later a solo bear. Later in the day I would see a bear, and the following day another.

This section was just south of Brandywine, West Virginia - which is where we stayed the night before. We walked into Fox's Pizza and purchased a motel room, which was situated out back, for $50.00. It was nothing fancy, but seemed very clean and fair priced and the pizza was excellent. The crispy crust made it. I'd stay there again.



- This area of section 3 also had a lot of somewhat deep gravel two-tracks. Just loose and deep enough to get your attention on a big bike.





































































































































Found a few murals as I passed through Marion, Virginia while riding the MABDR.































Not too far from the start of the MABDR (in Damascus, Virginia) along section 1, is Skull's Gap Overlook. It is in the Mount Rogers National Recreation Area and lies at about 3,000 feet. The nearby Mount Rogers is nearly twice the elevation and the highest point in Virginia. Whitetop Mountain also resides in this area, and is the second highest point.



This view from Skull's Gap Overlook is of the valley of Smyth County, Virginia.

The fertile land and the large amount of rainfall supports the vast forests and the well-tended fields. Smyth County is historically renowned for it's apple orchards. At the base of this mountain near I-81 is the town of Chilhowie - an native American term translated as "valley of many deer".

In the next valley is the town of Saltville where the rich salt deposits attracted Mastodon's and Wooly Mammoth's during the last ice age. During the Civil War, the North battled to control Saltville because it was the main supplier of salt used to preserve meat for the Confederates.




An old railroad grade as I'm approaching the Creeper Trail and Damascus.




- This was an appealing scene towards the beginning of section 1 before arriving in Damascus. Keep in mind that I was traveling south. Heading north you may very likely ride right past this cozy barn, tucked in-between a field and the wood-line, all of which is nicely framed by a small opening along the tree-lined gravel road. A good excuse to ride the MABDR in both directions. Would likely be two different experiences, especially during different seasons. Fall would be incredible, I'd suspect.

- Then after arriving in Damascus, a celebratory afternoon coffee and some delicious pork tacos were consumed at Mojo's Trailside Cafe and Coffee. After which, I banged out 250 miles or so of interstate (one of the reasons I like a big adventure bike) to stage myself in Marietta, Ohio - for the next days rural wandering ride home to Michigan.

This MABDR was an incredibly enjoyable ride for me. The build-up, the anticipation (especially after the movie and route were released) - and the execution. Of course it was not perfect for everyone all of the time. But all things considered, I think it was an exceptionally well flowing route that takes into consideration all skill levels and the vast array of adventure machines used - while allowing the rider to enjoy their surroundings and not be on high-alert all of the time. I doubt the route was ever intended as a be-all-end-all of adventure touring. It does capture the essence and should spark our desire for further wanderlust and inspire our imaginations to search out those other roads and points-of-interest that this particular route didn't, as surely it would take a lifetime to fully encompass the vast Appalachian Region.


Extras:

High on a ridgeline one morning after a very rocky climb from Paddy Poe State Park in Pennsylvania.







Zen-mode has arrived !




   

This MABDR route has some epic eastern overlanding. Nicely remote. No big cities or shopping malls.

Woke up this morning in Mt. Holly Springs, Pennsylvania.

Getting ready to head out and into Michaux State Forest and then Maryland and West Virginia on section 5 of the route.




"MABDR LIFE"



10 July 2018: Spending the night in Brandywine, West Virginia. Hit the trail early this morning and ran through sections 5 and 4 and almost half of 3. Over 300 miles of the MABDR today. Lot's of paved roads today. Great paved roads though.


11 July 2018: Ya'll are probably wondering how I managed that action shot of the water crossing in George Washington National Forest - while I'm riding solo. Well, I've made a new friend while traveling along the MABDR. He is a GS Giant by the name of Aaron. And of all places, he is from Grand Rapids, Michigan. Small world. We've been teamed up for the last few days.

Currently, I'm in Covington, Virginia eating Subway and gassing up the big yellow "Soul Transporter" - having just finished section 3. Getting ready to dive into section 2. Nice weather and dry. But, really hot. Although, it probably is everywhere. Almost ran over a young black bear about an hour ago. He ran out across the trail just 20 feet in front of me.




Somewhere near the West Virginia/Virginia border earlier today.

 


Closing in on the end of section 2. Back solo again. Aaron had to grudgingly break trail and head for the east coast to attend a family function. Standing out here admiring this vista while the wind dries my sweat from the last 80 miles of gravel switchbacks. 200 miles of MABDR on the day so far. My clutch hand is getting sore.

- Almost Heaven.




12 July 2018: Had no cell service last night. Rode about 30 miles into the first (and my last) section yesterday and found a free wild campsite in Jefferson National Forest. Crashed (slept) there.

 

Rode another 20 miles this morning before arriving at Brushy Mountain Outpost. Had breakfast here. This outpost is situated right on the Appalachian Trail and caters to hikers. It is also situated right on Wyrick Trail which is on the MABDR and my next trail to traverse. For a short distance it is also the AT.

Note the 1 year old baby next to the kitchen. Cool family operation. Must have been 4 young grandkids playing about while I scarfed down my biscuits and gravy. Good people !




Some serious gravel switchbacks (and sometimes seemingly endless) on the MABDR.




 

Oh, you thought I meant crash crash. Well ... that happened too. But don't tell anyone. I'm just trying to joyfully participate in this world full of obvious sorrows.




It's hard to tell in the picture, but there were quite a few good-sized and loose rocks in that section. I was daydreaming some, and picked the wrong line, so I stopped. Didn't realize how much camber was in the corner when I dabbed and a rock squirted out from under my boot. When that tall, fully-loaded GSA (over 600 pounds) gets even a little bit out of kilter, it is going over. While I did have the "Dirt Napper" packed in the top bag, it wasn't needed since I was sporting the hard panniers. The hard panniers allow you to rock it back over the first foot or so. I can handle it no problem after that.



@turbojim - Last night at around 2 in the morning, a loud crack in the forest woke me from a dead sleep at that dispersed campsite in Jefferson National Forest - and I instantly thought of you. It was fricken loud !

- Paradise!

Burke's Garden, Virginia

Burke's Garden - (Day 1)

   

Just a handful of miles to go before I'd exit Interstate 77 - and traffic came to an abrupt halt. The original plan (developed on the fly) was to exit at Rocky Gap and then follow Route 61 (west) to Burke's Garden.

Never made it to Rocky Gap. Instead, after creeping along for what felt like an eternity, an opportunity to bail from the torturous crawl presented itself. I was able to exit the interstate and run a series of backroads to Burke's Garden. It still is not clear to me, but I may have (probably) exited and then went up an on-ramp; it was a small blacktop road with no discernable markings. At that point .... I didn't care.

I'd intended on visiting Burke's Garden last year while riding the MABDR, but ran out of time, for running down extra points-of-interest. So, the anticipation was building as I was fast approaching the veritable garden; it was first on my list. This unique area supposedly has the most fertile land in the region.



Just as I was getting into the main loop around Burke's Garden, a young Amish boy in traditional farm dress came into sight. He was on a bicycle and had stopped and was intently peering over the edge of the bridge and into a creek. Pulling up alongside of him, I asked, "Are there any camping spots in the vicinity." He pointed towards the direction I was heading and replied, "Up there on the mountain." Before pulling away, I'd asked him, "Do you mind if I take a picture of you." He politely informed me, "We don't do that."



Up on that mountain is where those switchbacks and the bear that I'd discovered were located , which I had mentioned previously (in real time while on the ride). That is also where I crossed the Appalachian Trail and spotted the lone tent where the A.T. and the gravel road (that I was riding) converged. The Appalachian Trail runs along that whole ridgeline on the backside (southside) of Burke's Garden; probably a third of the ridgeline that encompasses Burke's Garden - is actually Appalachian Trail.

 

Before moving on, I'll take a moment to share some history and a few more pictures that I'd taken just after the rainfall.

Known for it's fertility and great natural beauty, the bowl-shaped Burke's Garden is the highest valley in Virginia. That's interesting; we don't usually consider valleys in terms of elevation.

Burke's Garden is a topographically rare elongated basin rimmed entirely by the Garden Mountain.



Burke's Garden was discovered by James Burke in 1749 while hunting. He built a cabin nearby and settled there around 1754.

Major Lewis's expedition against the Indians, 1756, camped there, and Burke's fort was there in 1774.

After four years Burke and his family moved to North Carolina, when hostilities began during the French Indian War. Burke died in North Carolina in 1783.

According to tradition, Burke buried some potato peelings in the region's fertile soil during a survey expedition. Sometime later another group camped out at the same site and discovered the potatoes, resulting in the area becoming known as Burke's Garden.

In 1781 Indians raided into Burke's Garden, carrying off the wife and children of Thomas Ingles.

The threat of Indian attack and the remoteness of the area discouraged permanent white settlement until the early 19th century.

 

Up on that ridgeline is when the sky finally opened up and let loose. A brief but hard rain fell, along with the temperatures; a welcome relief from the heat. An appealing campsite didn't present itself, so I ran back down the mountain and finished riding the main loop. Took many pictures after the rain (which I've already posted). Every change in weather and lighting offers different photo opportunities.



The day was quickly coming to an end as the main loop ended, dumping me back out where I'd entered near Mattie's Place (General Store); it was Sunday evening and the store was closed. Later I would learn that they offer camping on their hill; will have to keep that in mind as a future potential campsite.

"The magical sheen - immediately after a brief rain shower and just before sunset."



Another dramatic landscape in the mountain rimmed basin called - Burkes Garden.

 
 
Fatigue was setting in, as well as nightfall, so I started riding towards Tazewell. The GPS led me to the Tazewell Motel. Lucked out, as this was my kind of motel; nothing fancy, but cheap and clean. The Indian lady that owned it was friendly and for $40.00 a night, I'd go back and also recommend it. The bright orange wall added a simple but up-beat touch to an ordinary room.

 

Extra's:

Made it to my first goal today. A topographical anomaly. "Thumb Print of God".




 While negotiating those gravel switchbacks - I saw a black bear. At the top of the mountain I came across the Appalachian Trail and a lone tent set up just off of the trail. The current location is the Tazewell Motel.




Close up of the gravel switchbacks leading from Burkes Garden to the MABDR. I'm just north of the MABDR.

    
The Bear -



One of the gravel switchback corners -



Then the skies opened up and it rained hard for awhile as the temperatures dropped into the 60's. It felt wonderful after the scorcher temperatures that I had to ride through to get here. Probably rode about 600 miles today. But, now I'm in the good stuff. The "Back of the Dragon" is just up the road !

APPALACHIA - 2019

Appalachian Adventure - (Ride Overview) 25 May 2019

Just returned from five-days of Appalachian adventures. Now that I'm home, I'll start getting some more pictures and details posted. Since I'd ridden the MABDR in it's entirety in 2018, the focus instead was on nearby points-of-interests and some sections of the DAT (Damascus to Augusta Trail).

Although, I did re-ride the section of MABDR between Marion and Damascus - and will post-up a few pictures from that. The DAT starts up (and continues southwest toward the Smokies) where the MABDR leaves off.

My suspicions tell me that some (or much) of the DAT will be incorporated into the SEBDR (Southeast BDR) eventually; after all, there are only so many unpaved roads that can be utilized for such an endeavor.

The DAT also shares much of the route with the SEAT (Southeast Adventure Trail) and some of the TAT (Trans America Trail) and even some of the Smoky Mountain 1000.

Some of my destination goals and accomplishments on this ride included:

Burkes Garden; The Back of the Dragon (Route 16); a small section of the MABDR; a visit with Crazy Larry in Damascus; a portion of the DAT; Shady Valley and The Snake (Route 421) Mountain View Moto Campground; Roan Mountain; Rich Mountain Fire Tower; Hot Springs, NC and The Rattler (NC 209); Buzzard Roost; The BRP (Blue Ridge Parkway); Little Shepherd Trail along the KAT (Kentucky Adventure Trail).

- Gravel travel in the Unaka Mountain Range while traversing the DAT. Near the Tennessee and North Carolina border; back and forth actually. No state line signs up there though.

"Gravel Travel"




Ride Origins - (Gloom to Gusto)

This Appalachian Adventure wasn't originally planned and only spontaneously morphed into existence after a failed departure on a two-day ride to explore the TOT (Trans Ohio Trail).

After Saturday morning rain and general gloominess had me dozing back to sleep on the couch, still in my Klim Overland pants and TCX Infinty boots, the motivation and departure never materialized.

Spent the rest of the day in somewhat of a funk for not getting out on a ride - and knowing Sunday alone was not enough time to pursue a worthy chunk of the route, considering the ride down and back.

Late afternoon I said screw it, and sent my boss a text - asking for the week ahead off of work. He said, "Have fun."

I'd leave the shiny Harley Davidson's in the garage and load up the versatile GSA for this run. Sunday morning you wouldn't find me in bed.

Since I now had the whole week to run, figured I'd save the TOT for a future, shorter jaunt - and just bang on through Ohio, shooting for the Appalachian Mountains; had some bucket list destinations to explore and wanted to ride some of the DAT (Damascus to Augusta Trail).

While it still has not begun getting hot in Michigan, that all changed for me as I was approaching Southeast Ohio. By the time I crossed the Ohio River into West Virginia it was a full-on humid scorcher. Mid-90's all the way down into Virginia. Saw 97 as I passed through Charleston. That Capital building with the gold dome always grabs my attention when I roll through Charleston on Interstate 77/64. One of these days I'd like to stop off and check it out. There was scaffolding set up all around the upper perimeter of the Capital building as some kind of major work was being undertaken; maybe just fresh paint, I don't know.

Random 2019 Archives

All this new technology, in today's world, sure makes things easier.
Before leaving work today, I shot this picture and sent it along with a text to my beautiful wife.

Just wanted to send you flowers.
Spring has sprung.
Another wonderful season has begun.
Tonight we are gonna' have fun.
But tomorrow I gotta' run.

 

"PROJECT RUSHMORE" - Electra Glide

"The Last of the Twin Cams" - (Project Rushmore) 12 May 2019

The opportunity presented itself, and although with hesitation, I ended up acting on it. It's not at all like I needed another motorcycle, but the first motorcycle that I really bonded with was my 2003 Harley Davidson Ultra Classic. I've had a few H.D.'s since then, but when this pristine 2016 Ultra Classic with 2,500 miles on the odometer became available and was offered up, by a friend and co-worker, for an incredibly attractive price, I couldn't resist; it was still a lot of cash, but a fraction of a new one.

Two-Tone - "Mysterious Red Sunglo/Velocity Red Sunglo"



This bike had never even seen rain; that didn't last long once the keys were handed to me. I rode it home from his house at night, in a thunderstorm, while Rush's Tom Sawyer belted out over the Infotainment system. The two-toned red beauty is "Christened" now. The most harrowing part of the ride was the lack of visibility due to the driving rain - while attempting to navigate around the most devastatingly pot-hole strewn section of the country, known as Metro Detroit.

The Project Rushmore factory upgrades were introduced in 2014. The 103" motor received a bigger and better cam, the front forks became bigger and revalved, the body work was slightly changed (I'm still a fan of the older styling), the saddlebags and trunk received a new latch system with one-handed operation (really nice) and there is more, but those are the prominent features that come to mind.

The Infotainment system with built in navigation is trick. While I've yet to spend much time with it, the map screen is impressive and resembles the navigation that you'll find in the modern cars - which I've found to have a much better perspective than the Garmin GPS units that I have experience with. Compared to the other Harley's that I've spent time with - this appears to be a high-tech Hog.

In the short time my friend has owned the bike, he has performed a few tasteful modifications: Most importantly is the wonderful Mustang seat ! The trunk has received the quick-detachable bracket and hardware kit and the antenna has been relocated to under the front fairing for convenience and functionality - whether you're rockin' the trunk - or not. Some nifty and bright (official HD accessories) light strips have been added to the back of the saddlebags to match the one on the back of the trunk; they are really sharp and distinctly stand out.

This machine also has ABS ! Told you it was a high-tech Hog (if that is even possible). Just go with it.

Oh ... and it even has a little gremlin bell dangling a few inches from the pavement - from the bottom of the frame - to ward off the evil spirits. That very well may turn out to be the most useful mod.

So far, I've done a little wrenching myself, getting things dialed in. Took the coil-over shocks off my old Evolution Road King and installed them on the Project Rushmore FLHTCU; never could get the ride I wanted on the King with those shocks. Always was on the stiff side (even with lighter springs). They feel really good on the new bike though, but the new pig is probably 200 pounds heavier, lending more to the modern design and stiffer valving of the JRI shocks.

Also installed some mild 1 & 3/4" baffled slip-on mufflers that I had up in the rafters.

My friend had installed the tallest Klockwerks windshield available. Great windshield, but about an inch too tall for me. After re-installing the factory 9 & 3/4" windshield, it was determined that it was not quite effective enough. So, I ordered up an 11" Freedom shield with a flare at the top. Will report more on it when I receive, install, and ride with it; I'm confident it will suffice though.

Another one of the multitude of reasons for purchasing this bike is the fact that now that our daughters are getting older (and starting to disconnect from mom) my wife has expressed some interest in riding with me - at least in a limited capacity. She went on a few rides with me on my 2003 ultra, and felt that this new high-tech Hog would most likely be adequate, as she likes the passenger throne - and the red is a similar shade as to what she is accustomed to doing her nails in.




Before I absolutely committed to Dave about buying his bike, I'd decided to take my wife over to his house to see it in person and sit on it. We had planned a night out with Dave and Tamera for dinner and drinks, while combining the bike viewing.

Dave was really torn about selling it. The only reason he did is because his wife had developed debilitating back issues from work and could no longer ride. This bike was also in their wedding. Life does not always go as planned. Enjoy it while you can.

Forgot to mention that he also added extension brackets to bring the floorboards out away from the bike a little bit, giving us big-footed people more room and comfort; another nice touch.

Anyway, while my wife and I were sitting on the bike, Dave snapped off a picture. He took awhile to send it to me, so I was starting to think that he had changed his mind on selling the bike to me; as it was, I could feel his apprehension.

Turned out he was buying time on sending me the picture because Tamera spent hours with the picture in Photoshop. She cropped out the garage we were sitting in and put us in an amazing western environment with the sun shining. We were pretty impressed when he surprised us with the creative picture.




Huron River Drive - (Ann Arbor)

One of the few smooth (and scenic) stretches of road - which lies in somewhat close proximity to my home.

Out getting familiar with the new Ultra's attributes and shortcomings (which will be addressed systematically).



 

"Shiny chrome parts can afford a narcissist the opportunity for creative selfies."

A modern day zen master once mentioned in a discussion how many people today mistakenly think that the current generation is the "Me" generation - when in fact, the Me generation started in the late 60's and 70's. This common misconception is easily understandable though, when you consider the fact that the Me generation is overshadowed by the current generation in terms of narcissism. He went on to state that the data shows - that although narcissism became prevalent in the 70's - the current generation is 4-times more narcissistic. Interesting.




Here is a screenshot sample of the HD navigation system while traversing Huron River Drive and simultaneously rocking FM 106.7 on the radio.



Note the part of the river that opens up to the extreme right of the screen; that is Barton Pond. Many years ago I was looking for that fishing hole, but everything was so grown up (and concealing it) around it that I had no idea how to access it. Now the brush and foliage has been cut back exposing it with a shoulder to pull off and park. There are signs saying no trespassing, but I suspect they are only there for liability reasons, as there was a multitude of people walking down and across the railroad tracks to access the small trails that run along the waters edge.

After killing spark on the monstrous big twin, I took a stroll through the cozy wooded area myself. There were three late twenty-somethings hanging out at an overlook - openly smoking a joint (marijuana is legal here in Michigan now), another couple sitting on a large rock while peering out over the water, and yet another couple snuggled up in an enclosed hammock that was hanging at the trails edge.



Holly's First Ride - (Memorial Day 2019)

Finally, opportunity and perfect weather coincided, allowing me to get Holly out and enjoying her first ride - on the Mysterious Red Rushmore bike. Nothing too demanding; the plan is to slowly build miles and to keep things interesting and engaging for her. We took a relaxing country ride of probably 80-miles or so, through some wooded areas, we meandered along the Huron River, and even experienced a brief hike along some trails through the Barton Pond area which brought us to waters-edge and also some flower-sniffin' opportunities. Literally.



On the way home, I did briefly run a section of Interstate in order for her to become accustomed to those conditions, as she has always been apprehensive of the Interstate; with this rock-solid Rushmore bike and her high quality Shoei Qwest helmet, she did exceptional. We cruised effortlessly at 75 mph. Not that my intent is to make an Iron Butt rider out of Holly, but I do want her to be able to stay long enough in the saddle - that I can share some fantastic destinations with her.

The coil over shocks that I installed exceeded my expectations, and ride even better two-up, than solo. There was plenty of room ergonomically; I never felt crowded with her behind me. Still waiting for the 11" recurve Freedom windshield; that should put the airflow right where I want it. Hopefully in the next few weeks, we can get her out on an overnighter - and seek out a new style of adventure.

   

To be continued ...

OHIO - 2019

"The unique, the old, the aesthetically pleasing, the natural wonders, the sensational - the structures that ooze character. Those are the things that keep me searching."

To be continued ...