NEW MEXICO

Shiprock and the "Four Corners"

The terrain really starts changing as you get deeper into New Mexico. Even back in the 80's as a teenager - New Mexico and Utah spoke to me.

It really felt incredible to be traversing this land once again. But this time as an adult. Independent and doing it my way.

Since the Four Corners region was my desired destination, near Albuquerque, I'd briefly jump on I-25 North until it delivered me to route 550 or 44. Whichever one it is. One of my maps calls it 550, the other 44. Either way, this is where the riding really became serene.



Some beautiful country. Minimal cars on the road, along with gorgeous scenery. Wasn't sure on fuel availability in these parts or where I was heading, so I stopped off in Cuba, NM to top off my fuel tank.

While there, a Native who had just pulled in for gas in his truck, stopped to pick my brain on motorcycles. He was considering a purchase and was interested in my thoughts.

That is one of the benefits of solo travel. People want to talk to you. Individuals, families, all kinds. Their interested in where you're from and what it's like to travel long distances. They're even curious about your mindset and background. When you are riding in a group, perhaps you appear to be always busy or engaged with the other riders, and the locals feel as if they would be imposing. Not sure exactly, but there is much less contact when not solo.



Rolling through this area, the snow-encrusted Rockies were looming way off to the north. Even at this distance - their presence was awe-inspiring !



As I entered Bloomfield at the junction of 64, it was time to turn west. It was Easter and time for lunch. Not a lot of options on the road, so it was decided to have a whopper, black coffee, and an ice water at Burger King for the holiday.

While sitting there munching on the whopper and looking over a map to make sure I was on track, a lady came in and asked me, "Are you riding a motorcycle?" Quizzically, I answered, "Yes". That is when she informed me that a lot of fluid was leaking onto the ground under my bike.

After glancing out the window and indeed verifying this, I swiftly moved for the door. The fluid was pretty dark, but I still thought it was fuel.

Then it popped in my head: THE FUEL CELL! - that I just filled in Cuba.

Sure enough, forgot to shut off the auxiliary valve before refueling.

So, the fuel in the cell was forcing itself into the main tank which was also full. Therefore, the excess fuel was simply removing itself via the main (upper) tanks vent line, which dumps onto the ground directly under the bike.

After shutting the valve, the pool forming on the ground quit spreading. It was so dark because the old rubber vent line had not seen fuel in so long, it was being flushed out. And smelled like varnish. Like an old unused fuel tank on a barn find. Probably should replace that old vent line someday. Smelled that old varnish for the next couple hundred miles. It's been said there are only two ways a man retains anything: repetition or shock. 

Obviously repetition has failed me, maybe the shock factor will stick.

Oh well. Nothing too major. Not a show stopper. Scared me for a minute as the thought of the mighty ST chucking it's innerds flashed through my brain.

After finishing up my lunch, I'd called the Canyonlands Motel in Mexican Hat and let the owner know that I'd be there sometime around nightfall - and to ensure there would be a room.

Then, it was onward to Shiprock - with the powerful smell of varnish filling my nostrils.

A stop in Shiprock wasn't planned, but when I caught sight of the phenomenal murals adorning the whole side of a building from the road - an abrupt turn into the lot was immediately executed.



Native American and Latino inspired murals are appealing to me. As is written on one of the walls, it really is "Street Art From The Heart".

Shiprock is Navajo reservation land. It is named after a monadnock rising nearly 1,583 feet above the high-desert plain of the Navajo Nation.

While photographing the murals, an old Native came hobbling up on a cane and plopped down on the step in front of the building. He was obviously a drunk and possibly homeless.

He was beat down and looking rough, with his right eye sunk deeper into his head than the left, possibly not even functional. His skin looked as old as the earth.



He never initiated any conversation with me. Finally, I asked him if it was alright for me to take a direct picture of him. He chuckled while responding, "No, it would ruin the picture." After reassuring him it wouldn't, I left it alone.

Before leaving, I handed him a five, which he gladly accepted.

As I rolled out across the high-desert plain towards Teec Nos Pos, Arizona - this mysteriously imposing hunk of rock (Shiprock) jutting up into the sky from the desert floor stood out and was piquing my interest.



Especially when I came upon a dirt road leading towards it, along with a couple of signs associated with it. The signs obviously showed spiritual or sacred worship and meetings corresponding with this location. 



Later I would learn that the Shiprock landform was the remnant of an explosive volcanic eruption that occured around 30-million years ago!

It is also the involved in some seriously heavy Navajo legends. Something to the effect of it being the remnants of a giant bird that transported the Navajo to New Mexico from the north.

You may have noticed the silhouette of Shiprock in one of the murals.

With only a few miles to the Four Corners Monument, I'd arrived at Teec Nos Pos, Arizona. Right at the turn, there was a gas station and store, so a quick stop was made to use the facilities and look around. There were a couple of riders on KLR's from Durango, Colorado there. After a brief discussion and a few photos it was onto the Four Corners Monument.






The area is wonderful. The monument itself is no big deal. Not much there. The monument surrounded by a bunch of booths with Natives selling jewelry.

Paid the $5.00 and took a picture sitting in all four states simultaneously: Arizona; Utah; New Mexico; and Colorado. Guess it was worth it. Been wanting to do that for many years. Once is enough though.