MID ATLANTIC BACKCOUNTRY DISCOVERY ROUTE (MABDR)

MABDR - July 2018:



Arrived home early last night. Finished the MABDR early afternoon on Thursday. After coffee and pork taco's in Damascus, Virginia - I'd proceeded to hammer on up to Marietta, Ohio and spent the night there.

Yesterday, I'd take my time and leisurely work my way across the state via Ohio Byways. Figured that would be a fitting way to wrap up this adventurous journey and bring it to a close.

Instead of trying to put together a 7-day Ride Report - I'm just going to post random thoughts and pictures of the week as I go through them. Probably won't be in chronological order either. I've already been skipping around as I feel compelled. Too much damn order in the world anyway.

Right in the heart of the Appalachian Mountains!



The official MABDR map was huge and not really configurable for a tank bag map pouch (especially my miniscule enduro model), so while I followed the off-road tracks on my GPS to navigate the route, I'd also made up some flash cards for each section containing pertinent information such as total mileage for the section, start and end town, and highlights along the way - so as to know what to expect or how far along the section you might be.



At the beginning of each section I would load the new track in the GPS from the "My Data" option (since I had already loaded the whole route into my unit from the laptop) and then reset the trip meter on the bike while putting the corresponding section's flash card on top in the map pouch.




- Another section of nasty tight gravel switchbacks (Virginia).




Guess I better go back to the beginning in order to share this stunner of a scene that I stumbled upon on the way to the northern start of the MABDR. The day before, Turbo Jim accompanied me on a ride so I could get staged near the beginning of the route. He rode his 1983 VFR. We ended up staying in a motel in Wellsboro, Pennsylvania.

Early Sunday morning, he was to start heading back home - while I made the short 20 or so mile ride north to the New York/Pennsylvania border town of Lawrenceville.

Couldn't believe my eyes as I came up over a pass and peered down onto this majestic scene. There was even a couple of small fishing boats positioned in the midst of the fog. This is why you don't sleep in folks - get out on the road early !




One still steamy morning after descending from a series of gravel switchbacks, this barn setting caught my eye along a super sweet and curvy rural blacktop byway in Virginia. Being a Michigander, I'm very appreciative of the opportunity to revel in such perfect road surfaces. A few times I did even yell out in exhilaration while proceeding along the well laid-out route.

 

Immediately upon entering Lawrenceville, Pennsylvania to start the MABDR from the northern terminus - this mural presented itself. You know I love murals. Must be living right.



Then I rode around the corner to snap a shot with the state border sign. Already posted the other side in New York. Here is the PA side.



Then I stopped into a little breakfast joint called Dana's Diner - "This place cooks".



The GSA shared the parking lot with the most amazing Power Wagon I've ever laid eyes on.







With all of that out of the way, it was time to start traversing the MABDR route. The first section was a short 70 mile stretch to Cedar Run. But I had to route around a bridge that was closed along the trail. Met a couple of young Canadians who were just finishing up the route. Obviously they had started at the southern terminus. One was on a KLR 650 and the other a Suzuki V-Strom 650.



Random Pennsylvania forest road.



The Grand Canyon of Pennsylvania -

The BDR folks cleverly routed the MABDR through Colton State Park's West Rim of Pine Creek Gorge.

-Imagine a vast sheet of ice, hundreds of feet thick, inching over this landscape like a giant bulldozer. Several such glaciers sculpted this landscape. As the last glacier receded north more than 10,000 years ago, its melt-waters helped carve Pine Creek's deep gorge. Today, the waters continue to gradually deepen "Pennsylvania's Grand Canyon."



Coffee-time on the MABDR!




"MABDR LIFE" -

It felt satisfying to finally be on-route and riding this new Eastern BDR. I'd been anticipating this ride since winter and while Kenny and Scott were supposed to accompany me on this excursion, as is often the case, timing and life makes coordination difficult. Plus the weather has been flaky this year. Our busy time at work is not far off either and I needed to get this ride in before I end up getting tied up. It was July and hot, but at least the rain had finally stopped. So, off I went. If you want to actually ride, you better be prepared to roll solo.

I figured this route wouldn't be too technical, so I elected to mount the hard panniers and run fully loaded. Those spacious top-loading panniers spoil you with their convenience.

-Tioga State Forest




- A wide and smooth gravel switchback.




- A long straight, through lush forest, after a switchback.



- You had to really stay on your toes, if on a big bike, on many of these Pennsylvania forest roads. They often are narrow and very crowned with scattered loose gravel and small ditches on the sides. Much more so than the pictures express. When running at speed, it only takes a second to get in trouble.



-The route takes you through Historic Woolrich and the Woolrich Woolen Mill, which is fittingly located on Mill and Main Streets. Woolrich was founded in 1830 and is one of America's oldest sportswear companies. The original store and factory is still located here.



-This looks like a pleasant place to take my coffee break. Anytime and anyplace when packing a Jetboil and an Aeropress.







- A quaint and inviting two-track.



- There were some challenging and rocky areas along the way, but it sure was nice not to have to go to war with sand for a change. Pretty much everything is hard-packed and rocky in the Appalachians. Dusty when dry, of course. There would be some muddy sections when raining.



Whoops ! Stopped after picking a wrong line in some loose rocks. Daydreaming. Getting too comfortable. Didn't realize how cambered the corner was. Nothing is flat out there. Went to put my foot down and by the time it reached the ground the bike was too far over and a loose rock under boot was all it took. Just let it go. Don't pull a groin. That is why we have crash guards and no radiator to be concerned with.



MABDR - Section 8 "Driveable Trail" Expert Section:

While I was looking forward to this questionably rough challenge, I must admit that I was a bit apprehensive. Knowing that I had everything going against me since I was weilding a very large adventure bike, fully-loaded with aluminum panniers, and riding alone with no spot tracking device. And not knowing what to expect on the trail.

This section comes about just as your entering Bald Eagle State Forest. BESF would continue into Section 7 and end up being some of my favorite riding on the MABDR.



- The E and the arrow show the "Expert" path and how it detours from the main route on a topographical map. While you are in the middle-of-nowhere, note how close Interstate 80 is in proximity to your location. You would never have guessed it.



At least it was dry. This "Expert Section" was only 3-miles long. It consisted of a mostly narrow and overgrown two-track with a lot of ruts and rocks. The rocks were solidly planted in the earth though, so more than anything it was a very bumpy and rough ride as you negotiated your way along the trail - trying to pick as smooth a line as possible.



Being fully-loaded on my big GSA with stock suspension, occasionally had the skid plate, lightly kissing rocks and earth - as I bounced over rocks and dipped down into ruts. How often this happened was directly proportionate to how much speed I was trying to carry. This would be the theme throughout many rough areas of the MABDR while riding briskly. The main shortcoming that was exposed on this expedition was the stock ESA suspension. I'd even set it on HARD and MOUNTAIN - which is as stiff and tall as possible. Going to have to address this in the near future; something GOLD comes to mind.



Other than a hell of a workout for the suspenders and myself being "up on the pegs' for 3-miles, it wasn't too bad. I'd say calling it "Expert" is a stretch. Maybe "Challenging" or "Advanced" but I guess nomenclature or definitions can become blurred when your on a 650+ pound machine. This BDR really is designed for large bikes. I'd say ideal for large bikes. Makes you work some and is more challenging. Perfect adventure-touring terrain. Plus, if that section was muddy, it would be more challenging yet.

Just before reconnecting with the main route, the trail progressively opened up into a beautiful clearing.








- The official MABDR map view of the area.



- Along the bottom of the map is a handy mileage and elevation line chart that also shows some of the prominent crossroads and stops that you may want to consider.



Lot's of scenic overlooks along the MABDR - offering up spectacular vista's.
























MABDR - Section 7

This was quite possibly my favorite section. Don't get me wrong, I completely enjoyed each and every section of this adventure, but this section especially spoke to me with the combination of: Bald Eagle State Forest, the expert section, my serene layover in Poe Paddy State Park, the rocky climb up and out of Poe Paddy, while heading south, more incredible vistas along Poe Paddy Road, and then the fantastic backcountry paved roads through the bucolic (as the BDR folks worded it) farm land leading to McAlvey's Fort Cemetery. The 99-mile section just continued to keep me fully engaged.



- Here are a few pictures from the 10.5 mile long "Flat Hollow" Expert Section. This is also the rocky section that I almost ran over a coiled up Rattlesnake on - right in the middle of the trail ! Just missed him by inches. Luckily I was "up on the pegs" and could see him in time.

- Once again, this section was similar in challenge to the first and shorter "Expert Section"; no problem on even a loaded big-bike with an experienced rider. Remember - this BDR is intended for adventure travelers. Just slow down and pick as smooth a line as possible. It is a suspension workout. Actually, the trail between this expert section and Poe Paddy State Park is similarly rough, and the rocky climb up and out of Poe Paddy while heading south is probably just as difficult as the expert section. So, if you are coming from the south and you are comfortable enough traversing the rocky descent into Poe Paddy State Park, you should be fine with the expert section that shortly thereafter follows. I'd set my tire pressures to 33 PSI. (which is spec) on my Shinko 804/805's and left them there the whole ride, including the run back to Detroit from the end in Damascus.











This picture was specifically taken in order to capture a sampling of the rhododendron that lines the trail and runs deep into the forest along sections of not only this expert section - but many areas of the MABDR. Unfortunately, the prime bloom is long gone and the flowers are faded. But, catch this route, say mid-June or so, and I'd suspect you might be treated to an eye-popping sea of purple and magenta.



-The official MABDR map showing the expert section and Poe Paddy area.



- It was starting to get late as I rolled into Poe Paddy State Park. Being I was in a very remote area, figured I better check out the camping situation here and find somewhere to bed down for the night. Rode around to inspect the remaining sites that were available; they all seemed to be in very close proximity to other campers who were hanging out while playing games, cooking, and drinking. Pretty busy. Was hoping for more solitude. As I pulled back out towards the entrance, something caught my eye across the road, up on a slight elevation and at the base of some hills, with a small gravel drive leading up to the area.

- Now this was perfect. An isolated little hermitage - away from the main campground - to relax and reflect on an incredible days riding. Just my style.



- Layed out my bivy-sack in case there were many mosquitos. Turned out that there were absolutely no intrusive bugs all night. Perfect weather.



- Scavenged enough left-over firewood to enjoy a flickering and crackling fire while I sipped a small bottle of Merlot that I had stashed in my pannier - as my eyes became heavy. Even found a couple nice slabs of red oak. Love the heft and smell of a red oak log.



- Woke at sunrise, well-rested, to the glorious melody of song-birds, and the excitement and wonder of what this next day on the MABDR would bring.




 After departing camp at Poe Paddy State Park and continuing southbound, an almost immediate rocky climb up Poe Paddy Road had situated me atop a ridgeline.

- At the top there was a small trail off-shoot with a short climb up to a small clearing with a nice view. There was remnants of an old fire. A potential dispersed campsite.












- Continuing along Poe Paddy Road.




It took me awhile to make any progress along this ridgeline, as it seemed one scenic vista after another would present itself.

Ingelby View










Penn's View

The setting at Penn's View was really nice. There was a large and somewhat grassy area off to the side of where you park that would be perfect for a lunch break or even to sleep for the night.
















McAlevy's Fort Hill Cemetery -

After many more miles of remote gravel, passing by a logging operation and then through the small Penn Roosevelt State Park, eventually I popped back out onto some small rural paved roads through pristine farm land. When I saw the grassy hill in front of me, I knew that it had to be the old McAlevy's Fort Cemetery, which I had been looking very much forward to after viewing the MABDR movie. How many times have you passed by one of those inviting farm lanes meandering through an absolutely beautiful setting and wanted to ride along it and see where it takes you ? But you know it is private and can't. Well ... this time you can, and it is most likely sweeter than the ones you've seen in the past - when you had to deny yourself. Then at the top of this one, a bonus awaits you; a mid-1800's cemetery perched atop a perfectly manicured hill with a 360-degree view to die for. And it just happened to be a fantastic morning with exceptional weather.




- I'd followed the base of the hill around until the entrance to the farm lane presented itself.




- As I started making my way along the lane, there were cows grazing on my left and abundant fields to my right.




- A look back.




- Then I started the climb to the top.




- It became very steep in one area. The grass still carried with it the morning's dew, so I stayed on the dirt as much as possible.




-Last year this field was corn; besides the stalk remnants giving it away, I also recall the BDR crew riding along the corn field in the movie. Proper crop rotation being employed.




- Up at the top.




- Now that is a nice cemetery.




- And a gorgeous view ! That is the road that I had just arrived by, and in the distance - the mountains that I'd just crossed.




- Near the wooden fence of the cemetery is a mailbox that houses a couple of laminated papers listing all of the people who were buried there, including their birthdays and ages when they died. Notice how young that so many people were when they died back then. Most of us would be long gone by now - if back then.







Not too far down the road from the old hilltop cemetery, and I had to lock up the brakes as my peripheral vision caught sight of a scenic pull-off with another rider enjoying the view. This is where I met Aaron from Grand Rapids, Michigan - of all places. This was towards the end of section 7 and pretty much where he entered the route, as he didn't have time to ride the MABDR in it's entirety.



After introductions, we spent a moment gazing out across the vast Kishacoquillas Valley. Also known as "Big Valley." In this valley resides one of America's oldest Amish settlements. Within this settlement are three main Amish affiliations with multiple spin-off variations from those groups, and different colored buggy tops to help distinguish the affiliations; one of which is bright yellow.



Then we rode down and through that lush valley that we had just observed from the vantage point. We thought that was pretty exciting because initially we had no idea the route would take us down there. We were just following the tracks on the GPS. It's always interesting riding through rural Amish settlements; the farms devoid of automobiles, clothes hanging out on lines to air dry, small Amish kids in traditional dress, passing an occasional horse-drawn buggy, and the general uniqueness of the areas they call home. Amish areas are always excellent riding.

We finished section 7 as we entered into McVeytown, Pennsylvania. We found a small diner for lunch. Then embarked on Section 6. More exceptional riding.

- Aaron enjoying a smoke break down a remote gravel road.



We burned through Section 6, which consisted of 102 miles, and ended in MT. Holly Springs. It was only around 4:00 in the afternoon, but we decided to call it a day right there since we had access to a reasonable motel. A shower sounded nice. Plus we were about to enter the Michaux State Forest portion before departing Pennsylvania, and I wanted to be fresh, as I'd been looking forward to it.

The Holly Inn was clean and had fair rates at $60.00 for MABDR riders and $50.00 for Appalachian Trail hikers. Hey, don't complain; those hikers have been utilizing the motel for a long time. We just started.

They also have a bar and a restaurant attached to the motel. So, we never had to leave until morning.




Low Water Toll Bridge -

As I pulled up to pay my .50 cent toll, I was expecting the tin cup to be extended out of the window on a stick and the voice to say, "You just made my day." That is how it supposedly went down for the MABDR crew, but on this day, she just looked out the window and asked for the toll.

This is the private Old Town Historic Toll Bridge that crosses the Potomac River and connects Maryland to West Virginia. There are only a few private toll bridges left in the country.

Along the way I'd met a couple of Romanian Americans riding the MABDR. One was from Connecticut and rode a KTM 1190 and the other one rode a 2008 KLR 650 and was from Waterford, Michigan. I managed to snap this shot of the KLR Romanian as he thumped his way over the bridge and past me.









- Another spectacular landscape somewhere in West Virginia or Virginia on the MABDR !



MABDR - Horn Camp School

This was another interesting stop that was situated towards the end of section 4. Can't remember her name, maybe Annabelle, but not long after dismounting and walking towards the old school, she was out of her house next door and right over to happily greet me and show me around the inside of the old school. She went on and on with old stories and trivia. There was even an old picture on the wall of her then young Grandmother in a group picture who attended this school.

- The centrally located wood stove is original and was used to heat the schoolhouse back in the day.

- I'm pretty sure she said the desks were also original. The large blackboard at the front of the classroom is original and was flipped over to expose a fresher side.







- She explained to me how this old stove had belonged to her father, although initially she was unaware of this fact, and how the stove was in a neighbors house that had come up for sale. After some investigation and inquiry, she determined it was in fact her fathers old stove, and after much discussion with the new purchasers, she ended up acquiring the almost lost family heirloom.



- It was another hot day, and while taking in all of the interesting relics adorning the walls, this old electric fan, like I've never seen before, was doing it's best to keep us cool. Not original obviously, as it is electric.







While in the schoolhouse the Romanians had arrived. They obviously were not interested in the old schoolhouse or it's contents, as they opted to head straight over to a shade tree next to a woodpile, on the property and just off the road, and plop down for a break.

So, after I finished up in the schoolhouse, I moved my bike over to the shade tree and brewed up a coffee while talking with the Romanians and Annabelle. When I mentioned to them that I almost ran over a rattlesnake earlier in the ride, one of them pulled out their phone and showed us a video of them shooing a rattlesnake off of the road earlier that day. You could even hear the rattle sounding off loud and clear in the video. That bad lad was obviously agitated ! Here we are worried about the snakes, when the locals down there make a point to kill them.

While sipping my coffee, Aaron also showed up. We had become split earlier in the day. We took the bypass around Harpers Ferry, and somewhere around there we got separated. Not the first time, or last. We always ended up meeting back up somewhere along the way. Harpers Ferry and Antietam National Battlefield and Cemetery will be on a subsequent trip, when I can spend some time there and not feel rushed.

After descending from a good hour session of morning switchbacks (crossing into Virginia from West Virginia) in section 3, Aaron sat down for a smoke break and told me about the bears he had been seeing, as he was riding out front. It's nice when there are so few (basically none) cars that you can sit cross-legged in the middle of the mountain road while smoking and chatting about the ride without ever being disturbed. He saw a mother bear with two cubs and a short while later a solo bear. Later in the day I would see a bear, and the following day another.

This section was just south of Brandywine, West Virginia - which is where we stayed the night before. We walked into Fox's Pizza and purchased a motel room, which was situated out back, for $50.00. It was nothing fancy, but seemed very clean and fair priced and the pizza was excellent. The crispy crust made it. I'd stay there again.



- This area of section 3 also had a lot of somewhat deep gravel two-tracks. Just loose and deep enough to get your attention on a big bike.





































































































































Found a few murals as I passed through Marion, Virginia while riding the MABDR.































Not too far from the start of the MABDR (in Damascus, Virginia) along section 1, is Skull's Gap Overlook. It is in the Mount Rogers National Recreation Area and lies at about 3,000 feet. The nearby Mount Rogers is nearly twice the elevation and the highest point in Virginia. Whitetop Mountain also resides in this area, and is the second highest point.



This view from Skull's Gap Overlook is of the valley of Smyth County, Virginia.

The fertile land and the large amount of rainfall supports the vast forests and the well-tended fields. Smyth County is historically renowned for it's apple orchards. At the base of this mountain near I-81 is the town of Chilhowie - an native American term translated as "valley of many deer".

In the next valley is the town of Saltville where the rich salt deposits attracted Mastodon's and Wooly Mammoth's during the last ice age. During the Civil War, the North battled to control Saltville because it was the main supplier of salt used to preserve meat for the Confederates.




An old railroad grade as I'm approaching the Creeper Trail and Damascus.




- This was an appealing scene towards the beginning of section 1 before arriving in Damascus. Keep in mind that I was traveling south. Heading north you may very likely ride right past this cozy barn, tucked in-between a field and the wood-line, all of which is nicely framed by a small opening along the tree-lined gravel road. A good excuse to ride the MABDR in both directions. Would likely be two different experiences, especially during different seasons. Fall would be incredible, I'd suspect.

- Then after arriving in Damascus, a celebratory afternoon coffee and some delicious pork tacos were consumed at Mojo's Trailside Cafe and Coffee. After which, I banged out 250 miles or so of interstate (one of the reasons I like a big adventure bike) to stage myself in Marietta, Ohio - for the next days rural wandering ride home to Michigan.

This MABDR was an incredibly enjoyable ride for me. The build-up, the anticipation (especially after the movie and route were released) - and the execution. Of course it was not perfect for everyone all of the time. But all things considered, I think it was an exceptionally well flowing route that takes into consideration all skill levels and the vast array of adventure machines used - while allowing the rider to enjoy their surroundings and not be on high-alert all of the time. I doubt the route was ever intended as a be-all-end-all of adventure touring. It does capture the essence and should spark our desire for further wanderlust and inspire our imaginations to search out those other roads and points-of-interest that this particular route didn't, as surely it would take a lifetime to fully encompass the vast Appalachian Region.


Extras:

High on a ridgeline one morning after a very rocky climb from Paddy Poe State Park in Pennsylvania.







Zen-mode has arrived !




   

This MABDR route has some epic eastern overlanding. Nicely remote. No big cities or shopping malls.

Woke up this morning in Mt. Holly Springs, Pennsylvania.

Getting ready to head out and into Michaux State Forest and then Maryland and West Virginia on section 5 of the route.




"MABDR LIFE"



10 July 2018: Spending the night in Brandywine, West Virginia. Hit the trail early this morning and ran through sections 5 and 4 and almost half of 3. Over 300 miles of the MABDR today. Lot's of paved roads today. Great paved roads though.


11 July 2018: Ya'll are probably wondering how I managed that action shot of the water crossing in George Washington National Forest - while I'm riding solo. Well, I've made a new friend while traveling along the MABDR. He is a GS Giant by the name of Aaron. And of all places, he is from Grand Rapids, Michigan. Small world. We've been teamed up for the last few days.

Currently, I'm in Covington, Virginia eating Subway and gassing up the big yellow "Soul Transporter" - having just finished section 3. Getting ready to dive into section 2. Nice weather and dry. But, really hot. Although, it probably is everywhere. Almost ran over a young black bear about an hour ago. He ran out across the trail just 20 feet in front of me.




Somewhere near the West Virginia/Virginia border earlier today.

 


Closing in on the end of section 2. Back solo again. Aaron had to grudgingly break trail and head for the east coast to attend a family function. Standing out here admiring this vista while the wind dries my sweat from the last 80 miles of gravel switchbacks. 200 miles of MABDR on the day so far. My clutch hand is getting sore.

- Almost Heaven.




12 July 2018: Had no cell service last night. Rode about 30 miles into the first (and my last) section yesterday and found a free wild campsite in Jefferson National Forest. Crashed (slept) there.

 

Rode another 20 miles this morning before arriving at Brushy Mountain Outpost. Had breakfast here. This outpost is situated right on the Appalachian Trail and caters to hikers. It is also situated right on Wyrick Trail which is on the MABDR and my next trail to traverse. For a short distance it is also the AT.

Note the 1 year old baby next to the kitchen. Cool family operation. Must have been 4 young grandkids playing about while I scarfed down my biscuits and gravy. Good people !




Some serious gravel switchbacks (and sometimes seemingly endless) on the MABDR.




 

Oh, you thought I meant crash crash. Well ... that happened too. But don't tell anyone. I'm just trying to joyfully participate in this world full of obvious sorrows.




It's hard to tell in the picture, but there were quite a few good-sized and loose rocks in that section. I was daydreaming some, and picked the wrong line, so I stopped. Didn't realize how much camber was in the corner when I dabbed and a rock squirted out from under my boot. When that tall, fully-loaded GSA (over 600 pounds) gets even a little bit out of kilter, it is going over. While I did have the "Dirt Napper" packed in the top bag, it wasn't needed since I was sporting the hard panniers. The hard panniers allow you to rock it back over the first foot or so. I can handle it no problem after that.



@turbojim - Last night at around 2 in the morning, a loud crack in the forest woke me from a dead sleep at that dispersed campsite in Jefferson National Forest - and I instantly thought of you. It was fricken loud !

- Paradise!